Thursday, November 13, 2014

Levain Bakery Cookies Are Not Cookie Cutter Perfect--They're Better

Levain Bakery - Upper West Side (Also in Harlem and the Hampton's)
167 West 74th Street
New York, NY 10023


My cousin goes down in the in Hall of Foodie Fame for this recommendation.

As though it were no big deal, she slipped in the name Levain Bakery over lunch the other day. Despite her lack of fanfare, I knew the bakery must be good for her to have mentioned it. I just didn't know just how good.

Having no prior knowledge of the Levain Bakery's cookies, my expectations were moderate, which is unusual in a city where every "hot" foodie trend spreads like a pandemic through Buzzfeed, Twitter, and casual conversation. But when I sidled into the line crowding to the door, I realized maybe this was a hot trend I had missed.

As a grab-and-go basement bakery, the queue moved quickly, ushering in the stalwart patrons who had been patiently waiting through wind and spitting rain. With the chocolate chip brioche out of stock, I opted for the double chocolate chocolate chip cookie, which arrived not warm but hot. Levain defies the flat, cookie cutter feel of chain stores (Think Mrs. Fields, if you dare make the comparison.) As with any fine work, the imperfections contribute to, rather than detract from, the brilliance. In the case of Levain Bakery, what you receive is a mildly misshapen, mountainous cookie that gets your hands messy and melts in your mouth--but I guarantee you wouldn't want it any other way.

After also trying the walnut chocolate chip (also delicious), I would recommend the double chocolate instead. The walnut cookie's sugar content carried a zealously sweet imprint of blanched sugar. Left unchecked, this sweetness becomes too overpowering to continue eating after just a few bites. In contrast, the bitter cocoa in the double chocolate chocolate chip enriches the dough and eliminates any trace of processed taste. Nevertheless, the cookie is rich enough that halfway through my chocolate cravings were satiated. In a moment of unexpected self control, I saved the rest for later.

And I am so glad I did. After a night in the refrigerator, a Levain Bakery cookie is still soft enough to sink your teeth into--like a block of fudge. It is the breakfast of champions.

Sunday, November 9, 2014

Sake Bar Hagi Is A Thumbs Up Despite Times Square Locale

Sake Bar Hagi - Times Square
152 W. 49th Street, New York, NY 10019


I work in Times Square, which is immeasurably convenient when it comes to transportation (almost all the subway lines converge in that area), but inconvenient in almost every other regard. Once in a while I smile when I see Times Square as the backdrop to a Hollywood movie, which reminds me that my daily doldrums are other people's fantasies. However, most of the time the mess of tourists and overwhelming advertisements makes me curse Times Square (sometimes aloud). The mix of indecently high prices and blatant tourist traps also makes me steer clear of dining in that area; even after taking in a show I try to dine 5-10 blocks from the epicenter.

However, Sake Bar Hagi surprised me. Neither a tourist trap nor price gauge, this restaurant was mildly decorated and highly affordable. We settled in at the sushi bar with hope.

We had been lured there under false pretenses. As we were choosing a restaurant, my dining mate had seen a picture of salmon rice balls on yelp and became fixated. Yet one glance at the menu confirmed that this was an all-ramen joint with far fewer options than Yelp pictures promised.

Nevertheless, we each ordered a bowl of ~$10 ramen, which came with a more traditional wooden spoon and chopsticks, and began to slurp. Uneasy about the quality of the meat from the unconvincing menu photos, I had ordered vegetarian. Seeing the sliced pork in person quieted my qualms, but I was still happy with my choice. Hot, flavorful broth backed a medley of Asian add-ins--bok chou, seaweed, and a boiled egg in particular--which warmed my belly from the inside out.

In the Hell's Kitchen area there are two or three trendy ramen restaurants that almost always have a wait of an hour or more--no reservations or take out allowed. Sake Bar Hagi is no four star restaurant. These are not magic noodles. Yet, I was pleasantly surprised to find this little gem in proximity to Times Square. And, there was no wait to dine.


Sunday, November 2, 2014

Radiance Tea House & Books Promotes Calm and Wellness

Radiance Tea House & Books - Midtown West
158 West 55th Street, New York, NY 10019


Radiance Tea House & Books channels the refined elegance of a traditional tea house at the foot of tea hills across mainland China. The slender menu book of teas contains a range from Chinese green, jasmine, or pu'er; to wellness teas that list a variety of health benefits; to teas of other origins, such as caramel Rooibos. Sit among the Chinese books--in both Mandarin and English--that you can peruse or buy while you sip tea in one of the few truly quiet spots you can find so close to Times Square. 



On the opposite side of its mini-library there is a small restaurant section. The menu has typical Chinese fare that holds true to origin while catering to Westernized palates--such as egg custards and hot and sour soup. Between the two of us, we ordered one "wellness soup", one green tea soba noodles, and one shrimp wanton noodle soup.


Goji berries, ginger, ginseng, and dates jived brilliantly in this small pot of soup (served with a lid to maintain heat) that packed bold flavor into a sweet, calming brew. No one flavor stood out boastfully, and whether placebo, mental satisfaction, or the true power of the ingredients, this soup managed to turn the tide for my fellow diner who had been feeling unwell.


The green tea noodles, served cold with chilled chopped cucumbers and a lonely bok choy, added substance to the small soup order. For me, I had my own wanton soup, which made the first bitter cold Fall day fade into the distance. The first slurp of soup disappointed me; but after a couple of stirs I awoke the seasonings that had settled at the bottom and could not have been happier with the order. Essentially, this was Grandma's Jewish Chicken Noodle Soup--except Chinese (and with shrimp wantons). Good for the body and the soul. 

We didn't have to get dessert (when do you have to get dessert?), but obviously we decided on a little something sweet to finish the meal. Splitting the mochi sampler was a strategic success--this much ground gluten is not a good idea for one person.


I'm not sure if my next dining experience will be with a friend for dinner or a good book for tea, but either way I look forward to it.