Sunday, January 12, 2014

Otto is Like Being Wrapped In A Warm Italian Blanket

OTTO - Greenwich Village / Washington Square Park
1 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10003

As a dining mate said, walking into Otto is like being wrapped in a warm Italian blanket. It was hollow and windy and freezing outside, and then I walked in to a heated, crowded, lively Italian restaurant with rusty orange walls. There were more children and families there than I'd seen in most restaurants of that size and caliber in New York. While I was duly impressed with the service--we had both a knowledgeable sommelier and a prompt and informative waiter--the food wasn't quite what I was expecting. My friend's pizza with egg was perfectly thin and fresh, made from the best dough, but the sauce hinted more strongly at tomato paste than fresh vine tomatoes in summer. I ordered the Goat Cheese Agnolotti, a fresh pasta dish with lemon, butter, and tiny pasta pillows of goat cheese The food was good, but the presentation lacked--anything. The dishes, garnish, plating--all lacked imagination.

But to be honest, the reason you come to Otto is for the homemade ice cream. Three scoops, though they seem small in their silver goblet, are more than enough to satisfy any sweet tooth. I ordered caramel, crème fraîche  and dark chocolate. The crème fraîche is made with eggs, so it is thicker and richer than the rest--and quite heavy. The caramel and dark chocolate were both exceptionally flavored and all three were remarkably smooth. I ordered a hazelnut hot cocoa, too, and it was one of the best I've had. Period. I wouldn't give the overall restaurant a five-star rating, but this restaurant is more than reasonably priced ($8 for three scoops of homemade gelato; $15 for homemade pasta) and very friendly. It's a good, solid find. 

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